jeudi 12 mai 2011

Got my mojo working again.

Last year was a bit of a write off for a couple of reasons. This year is looking much more promising. The weather is better and we've been able to get out on the rock regularly since just before Easter. As a result, I'm feeling fitter and I'm really psyched.

The weekend after coming back from Rodellar, I managed to redpoint "Connecting People". Before the holiday, I was sure it was 8a+, but after redpoint I decided to agree with everybody else with 8a. Either way, it's a great connection linking "Come on Chris" and "le Dernier Jour de Democratie" at les Marches du Palais.

Last weekend, we went up to Le Palais, which is a really long walk above Monaco, and I got stuck into "le Mort de Cesar", an excellent 8a that finishes up another 8a ("On Attendant le Hubbert Peak") I did 4 years ago. First go, was the usual hard graft sitting on the rope dogging sketch, but 2nd go I finally got the moves (and kneebars) sorted. So, I have this route now ready for the redpoint, maybe this Saturday. Afterwards, we stopped by at Petit Palais (amazingly for the 1st time, having always walked past). We did the 6c+ and 7a+, both of which were tough for the grade. We went back for a very quick session on Sunday, before Man Utd played Chelsea. Elaine played on the 6c+ and I managed "Gladiator", a tough but great 7b+ with a tricky cross through move.

Yesterday, we went to Mesa Verde, in the Gorges du Loup and had lots of fun talking and joking with Marie-Jo, Julien, Sabine and Laurence. Conditions were great. So Elaine and I wamed up on the steep 6c+ and "Pas de bras, pas de chocolat" 7a, then I found another brill project. I'd never done "Petit Poucet", so I thought it would be a good one to try with the connection into "Arrowhead". This is fantastic and I've got it sorted for redpoint now.

So, I now have a problem. Where to go this weekend? Which route to try? Or should I try both? Only one more day, trying to motivate the next generation and then back on the rock! It's great to be psyched again....

lundi 9 mai 2011

1st try

I've been thinking about putting some ideas down in one of these things for a while. If anybody reads any of this, I hope that they are not offended and I shall do my best not to ramble.... Can't do much tonight as Liverpool are playing Fulham on tv!